Wednesday, 3 August 2016

How To Shape And Define Your Eyebrows

How to Shape Your Eyebrows  
As a beauty therapist, I always get asked when doing eyelash treatments how clients can look after their eyebrows. Eyebrows should be a priority when doing your make-up or looking after your beauty regime as they really do frame your eyes. 
See here: Even if I am wearing no make-up I will always make sure I have some sort of eyebrow shape and then I just put on a flash of mascara blusher and lip-gloss. Without eyebrows I think I would look so washed out and pale.

Eyebrow shading is important for blonde ladies as no eyebrows and fair hair can make you look really washed out and pale. Darker haired ladies need to watch their shaping as darker hairs out of place can look messy and masculine and red haired ladies need to make sure that they get the right colour eyebrow shade as too light or too dark a shade can look odd and no one has red eyebrows. 

Eyebrow Kit:
Here are the things you will need to follow my step-by-step guideline on shaping 
and defining eyebrows. Once you have these things in your kit then they will last ages and you can easily do your eyebrows yourself instead of always getting them done at a salon: 
1. Jessica Purely Clean Sanitizer £19.95
- A pump sanitizer is great for sterilising your tweezers and hands for eyebrow shaping.
I really like the Jessica Purely Clean Sanitizer which is £19.95 (you can get it on Amazon) for a huge 251 ml bottle that will last you ages. It's actually a hand and foot santzer that cleanses and helps prevent the spreading of bacteria and germs. It has Triclosa and SD Alcohol in it to sterilise and help kill bacteria while Aloe Vera to soften and condition. It's the only sanitizer I have find which doesn't sting especially when you are dealing with plucking. 

2. Bioderma Hydrabio H20 £10.50 
This has only come across to the UK and I'm delighted as before I could only get it online or in Paris. It's the best Micellar water (Cleanser) I have ever used! This moisturises, cleanses and soothes dehydrated and sensitive skin. Again great if you are working with eyebrows that might have old make-up, hidden dirt or you are plucking. This can be used over eyes and the face and feels lovely to use because it is so gentle. 

3. Cotton Pads £1.75
Any cotton pads will do but get the bigger square or oval ones when doing beauty treatments as they are easier on the face surface and baby ones are always better as they re hypoallergenic. I always tend to use these Tesco Loves Baby ones as they are very soft. 

4. Magnifying Double Sided Mirror £5.49
You will definitely need a double sided mirror which has a magnifying side for any eye treatments. Here is an excellent one at a great price. 
 5. Ardell Brow Pomade £7.99
Brow Pomade used to be only available at salons so I am glad that Superdrug now stock this and at a great price too. Pomade is a much better wearing brow colour that you can use to fill in eyebrows that gives a much better natural result than some eyebrow pencils and looks a lot softer. If you are set on using brow pencils then Benefit do the best ones for that. Pomade has a powder and gel formulation so you can sculpt it and it usually lasts all day as it is smudge resistant. 
On one end of the applicator you have an amazing eyebrow make-up brush and on the other is an eyebrow brush which are essential for doing your eyebrows with. 

6. Sterex Cosmetic Cream in Light Tint £9.94

  • This is a beauty therapist secret product. If you are going to be plucking your eyebrows then you will have redness so it is not a good idea to apply make-up to the area for 24 hours due to infection risks. Therefore this cream has immediate soothing properties and has Triclosan which has antibacterial properties. The cream gives a light camouflage coverage similar to foundation and covers any redness. I like the cream in Light Tint shade as that tends to work on most skin tones however there is a clear and medium tint shade available as well. 
  • Sterex Cosmetic Cream 

7. Long Eyeshadow Brush £1.25

You'll need some eyeshadow brushes to mark where you need to shape your eyebrows and for applying neutral eyeshadow. These ones are a good buy from Amazon as they are lovely and soft and a great price. 

8. Tanya Burr Hollywood Eye Palette £5.99
You can use any eyeshadow palette you wish but when I do my eyebrows I like to set them off with neutral colours for a natural look. I love this Tanya Burr eyeshadow set as I use 
Nude Delight and Gold Coin on my eyelids for a warm shimmer look. The price of £5.99 for such a high pigmented palette is fantastic. 

9. MAC Soft and Gentle Mineralize Skinfinish £24
If you are going to have really natural make-up to show off your eyebrows then a light sweep of this gorgeous peachy, bronzy highlighter adds depth added just under your eyebrow arch and in the inner corners of your eyes. A real make-up artist must have product! 

10. Rimmel Eyebrow Pencil £2.70

You will need an eyebrow pencil to shade in your points for plucking and shaping. I love this eye pencil as the price is great and the shade is just right for me in Hazel. The brush on the end is really handy too. 

11. Tweezerman Slant Tweezers
Ic an only work with these professional slant tweezers as they can grab the tiniest eyebrow hairs. Once you have a pair of these they will last you a lifetime and you just have to make sure you clean them with sanitizer (mentioned above) before and after each plucking session.  

Step-By-Step tutorial to shaping and defining brows

1. Clean away any old make-up or dirt from your eyebrow area with Hydrabio 
(Mentioned above or any gentle cleanser).

2. Position your eyeshadow brush and hold it beside your nostril straight up. This will give you the point at which you need to start your eyebrow shape. 

3. Pencil in where the eyebrow brush met the start of your eyebrow and add a line with your 
eyebrow pencil. 

4. Next position your eyebrow brush from the side of your nostril to the middle of your eye pupil and through to your eyebrow. Make a similar mark on this point of your eyebrow as this will determine your brow arch. 

5. Your last point to mark will be where your brow ends. Simply mark this spot by holding your eyeshadow brush from your nostril to the outer corner of your eye. Where the brush ends up in your brow is where you need to make your last mark with your eyebrow pencil. Repeat on your other eyebrow the same three points. 

6. You will now have three pencil marks as a guide for where your eyebrow should start, go as high as and end.

7. Comb through lashes with an eyelash wand or the end of your eyeliner pencil to separate eyebrow hairs so they are clearer to see. This is on the end of the Eyebrow pomade applicator. 

8. Next sterilise your tweezers with your sanitizer and start plucking your eyebrows within your three points below the brow, above the brow and in-between your eyebrows. Use your magnified mirror side for this bit. Pull the skin away from you as you pluck for painless removal. Use slanted tweezers to catch all the small hairs. 

9. After plucking your eyebrows might look a bit tender so add some Sterex Cosmetic Cream (mentioned above) to soothe your eye area and take away any redness. Smooth this all over your eyelid up to your brow bone. 

10. Now apply your brow pomade in a lovely eyebrow shape and rub out the markers you had as 
you go. Use the Ardell brush for application. 

11. When you first apply the eyebrow pomade it will be really strong and your eyebrows will look a bit slug like. Once you have your basic shape though run an eyebrow brush through it to make it look more natural and dab down any darker bits with a tissue. 
12. I like to finish off my eyebrows with a tiny bit of eyebrow pencil on the ends just because I love definition but you don't have to do this. 

14. The apply a light eyeshadow below your eyebrow bone and over your eyelid. I like Tanya Burr Hollywood palette for neutral warm tones. (Mentioned above) 

15. For a final touch of glamour and to accentuate your eyebrow shape even more add MAC Soft and Gentle Finish (Mentioned above) add some of this powder below your brow bone and in your inner eyelid corners. This will open up your eye. I also like to sweep this powder down my nose, on my cupid's bow and on my cheekbones to wake up my whole face. 

16. Here is the finished effect as you can see I am only wearing tinted moisturiser, a light coating of mascara, lipgloss and I have my newly shaped and defined eyebrows done- what a difference! 

Please feel free to ask me any eyebrow questions below and let me know how you shape your eyebrows. 

If you liked this blog post then you might like:
HD Brow Review:

How To Apply Gel Eyeliner:


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